Jerónimos Monastery – pic from our last trip in 2007

So on a whim we have decided to go and sip coffee in a Lisbon Cafe

Whims don’t need reasons but here are a couple

  • We wanted to see Europe before it became too hot, that meant a May/June visit
  • Just wanted a change
  • Lisbon because we had only been there once before, on a day trip
  • Great deals on “Shoulder Season” flights and hotel

The Itinerary – There is no itinerary! …..off the cuff days

Day one: 8th June 2026

Arrived early at the hotel (Hotel3 Barcelona) and got right in as we had booked a day early. A note about the airfares, we booked two weeks ago for a really good price, then a week later the AirTransat app offered a promo fare for $120 less, checking two days later that fare had disappeared and the real fare was up by $200 from the price we paid. It does pay to keep monitoring but the kicker is if you have booked at the first rate it cannot be cancelled for a cheaper one so one just looks and shakes one’s head.

The flight was good and we landed into one of the more chaotic airports we have been in, no gate for the plane so we used buses to get to the terminal. The first hurdle was lining up to use the machines that track ‘ins/outs’. The usual questions and a photo and fingerprint. Then told to use the ‘e-gates’. Following the herd it was too easy to get into the wrong line as there were two. One for the people who did not use the machines (EU Citizens) and the other for those who had used the machines. It was easy to get into the wrong line, which we did, but quickly realised the mistake and had to scramble under the barriers to get to the ‘e-gates’.

Then it was a journey to find the exit, which was the same as the entry as the Lisbon airport does not have specific lanes for Arrivals and Departures. One big hall filled with duty -free stores. Finally exiting we were looking for the airport pickup. Using the phone to get onto the Esim and then hoping to get messages from the pickup guy. Well when the wifi failed to connect on the third try I sauntered over to the Info Booth and asked how to get onto the Terminal wifi. “You don’t” she said, “It has been down for a week!”

So the pickup guy had not showed his sign for us to see anywhere, so we jumped into a taxi. Not before learning that there  is a procedure to be followed. Stand at the front of the queue and be waved over to the next available car. Hmm smelling a scam, as soon as the driver tilted the meter away from eye-level, he proceeded to demand 15euro for a 8 euro meter at the hotel. “It’s only 8 on the meter” I said proving to be an adroit tourist. Thar buckled under the logic of “Baggage” pronounced Bagarge. Not wanting a fight I caved and handed over the demanded money feeling superior because I did not tip.

The rest of the day, catch up with sleep, and eating at a cafe around the corner. Sea Bass for Doreen, Caesar Salad for me

 

Sea Bass

Caesar Salad

Day 2: 9th June 2026

Hopon Hopoff bus day 

Started late for us but normal for most tourists – on the street at 10am. Headed for the hopon hopoff bus office. Jumped on the nearest metro and the first challenge was to buy and load a transit card. Luckily the ticket machines were easy to follow. Loaded the cards with 10 euros- enough for six rides (1.66 euros each ride) but as always mistakes happen, this time we got off one stop before the one we wanted, but easily fixed.

Arrived at the place where the buses happen, we decided to pick the Green line first, it was the next bus out. This bus, smaller than the others followed a route through the hilliest and oldest part of the City, how they got around some of the corners was very tricky. This part of the Town was hilly and full of tourists.

Next bus was the Red Line, this was a good one because it went to one of the places that we wanted to visit – the Royal Coach Museum. This place was full of the coaches used by the Kings and Queens of Europe in the 18th and 19th Centuries. Interesting and insightful. Not quite as colourful as the English coaches but just as structural.

Back on the bus 10 minutes before the announced time and I was taking a pic in the park and Doreen says “Look” just in time to see the bus arrive and leave. Being on the wrong side of the road we moved and sat on the bench and waited prepared for a 30 minute wait. Ten minutes into the wait a bus turned up and then followed by another bus. Just think how long await it would be for the next one!

Next stop was the centre of Lisbon for a look around and pitstop. “happy hour” meant all drinks for 5 euros, a bargain, we sat down and enjoyed. It was time to go back, the choice was the Metro Rossio station. We found what we thought was the Rossio station – it was but not the Blue Line Rossio, it was the green Line Rossio and they do not link up underground, so we wasted one of our rides. Finding the Blue Line Rossio, on the other side of the square we came home to the hotel.

Next stop was the little resto next to the hotel. Average prices for food but great prices for drinks. Back to the room to discover that the room had been made up – our bad we didn’t put the sign on the door!

End of day

 

 

Day 3: 10th June 2026

On the road at 10am and waiting at the bus stop on the Blue Line for the second 24 hours on the HoHo ticket. We had been told that the buses start at 0930 so we waited and waited. Being a nice morning, with a good temp we didn’t mind but at 11am we had to go to Plan B. Jump on the Metro and tube it down to the main Terminal. We were going to a place on the Red Line that Doreen had spotted yesterday – a little flea market of stalls by the side of the road. When she mentioned it yesterday we assumed it was the Time Out Market at Stop 4, wiki ref here  This Market was definitely not the Market we wanted because we saw that Market again when we passed it driving to the destination. But the Food Hall was an interesting place. For one it was a cashless place CCs only and only food on one side and fruit and veggies on the other. A coffee and pastry was in order. The pastry, naturally, was to be the traditional Portugese custard tart. Both went down well in the hot sun.

Walking back to the Main Square at the seafront was an interesting one as we stayed on the side streets and enjoyed the architecture and the relatively quiet of the lower part of the City. Cruise shippers had not discovered this part of the City. That changed as soon as we arrived at the Main Square. A large place which was being fitted out for the World Cup ‘watching’. Staying a while to look at the people enjoying the Seaside we then walked up one of the main “Tourist Traps” the main street that goes North all the way to the middle of the City. The complete street for at least 500 metres was all restaurants a foodies dream but at tourist prices. The only break was the few restos that advertised “happy hours’ at cheaper drink prices. Finally arriving at a Square we recognised we realised that we had to get back to the Bus Terminal. Another Metro ride made sure we arrived.

The plan was to ride the only bus we had not sat on – the Blue Line. This was also the bus that we wanted to use to get back to the hotel, the plan was to ride the bus and stay on it to get home, after all the ‘get-off’ stop was the second one on the line. The Blue Line was a waste of time – it travelled in the Northern part of the Town, mainly residential areas and the dockside. The attraction was the site of the Lisbon Expo but the exhibits were not open, especially the sight we wished to see – the “Tile Museum”. It like many other museums in Town were closed for major renovations until September. Just a hot ride seeing not much. But the bus, on the second go-around, did take us back to the “Bull Ring” where we needed to get a bite to eat and then back to the hotel. Not finding a real ‘sit-down’ place to eat at the BullRing we walked around and found a small resto in the shade. Wonderful place; English speaking waiter who carefully explained the menu, cheap drinks and great food.

Day 4: 11th June 2026

Today we did what we came to Lisbon to do – not much! First part of the day we went to the biggest mall in the Iberian Peninsular. 300 stores and 60 restaurants, but it was a bit out of the way. Two Metro changes and a seven station ride to reach it. The Colombo Mall is definitely a destination Mall. But not that crowded when we were there. The Metro stops at the Mall and it is easy to navigate. Three levels of shopping and food ideas. Pic on the left is of the Mall pic on the right is that of one quarter of the food court, Nothing out of the special if you think about Yorkdale in Toronto. The amazing part of the place is the food court, a circular route of every fast food  franchise ever invented. We did not buy anything but saw everything!

Back on the Metro to come back – we did but not without drama. It was inevitable that the exit chosen today would be on the wrong side of the Avenue to go home. Not only that we walked 500 metres in the wrong direction, but we did make it back to the hotel armed with a bottle of wine which was consumed on the room terrace. Again a casual choice of activity to end the day.

Tomorrow a day at the seaside!

Day 5: 12th June 2026

At the Seaside

Today was another leisurely day and we went to the seaside, not to swim but just to gawk. Cascais is a Regal place the Summer homes of the Portugese Monarchs and Rulers (wiki ref here) used to exist here but now to quote wiki “The municipality is one of the wealthiest in both Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula. It has one of the most expensive real estate markets and one of the highest costs of living in the country, and is consistently ranked highly for its quality of life.

Two Metro changes and a 35 minute train ride for 7.32 euros return was a bargain by any means. The guide books told us to sit on the Coast side of the train to get the best views but there were no best views as the space between the tracks and the sea was filled with real estate. But we did get there and wandered around the Town. We saw and visited a very good Municipal Museum and streets filled with restaurants, It seems that the major pastime for visitors is eating. We did the same. Finally found a small mom and pop resto and we tucked into lunch. I had sardines, the National dish and Doreen had an exquisite chicken breast that did not look like a breast as it had been either pounded flat or cam form a very small chicken but the looks belied the taste with added mushrooms and garlic.

The visit to the Town over we headed back, picked up another bottle of wine and a couple of pastries and that was the end of the day.       

Day 6: 13th June 2026

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